📷: Canon EOS Rebel II + Canon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
🎞: Lomochrome Purple, shot at ISO 200, developed in fresh ECN-2 at 100F for 3 minutes

The flyback transformer for its CRT runs at a slightly lower frequency (~14.6 kHz) than normal CRT TVs (15.7 kHz) and that little difference is enough for the sound to drive me absolutely insane

So, I got some Vision3 50D today and stuck a 36 exposure roll into the Palette. I loaded up all the color pictures I already had on the Power Mac and let it work. I started it at like 5:30 PM yesterday and it has just now finished at 7:38 AM. There's still 2 exposures left but I shut the machine off

Sadly nobody has figured out how to make new film profiles for this thing so this is what I currently have to work with. The only ones that are still made are Fuji Neopan (AKA Acros) and Kodak TMAX. Normal Gold is still made but not Gold Plus. I've been using the TMAX 100 profile for B&W. Seems okay

Tonight I have sacrificed the rest of that roll of Kentmere 400 (ended up being 24 exposures) to the film printer but instead of overexposing the crap out of it I stuck a 2 stop neutral density filter in front of the lens. I'll develop it this afternoon and see how it turns out

And I'm also fighting my Power Mac 9600 running Mac OS 9, which is an unholy combination. I hate classic Mac OS. It is irredeemable, unstable, slow, unusable garbage. Yet I still continue to push this boulder up a hill since it's the only thing that I got working. I love computers

I have absolutely no idea why it refuses to work with the Gold. It'll load the film just fine and make an exposure but it just doesn't want to advance to the next frame. Extremely annoying to diagnose since exposures on color film take 10 to 20 MINUTES by the way

First roll I attempted was some expired Gold 200 but the thing refused to cooperate (film was unscathed thankfully). Then I chopped a roll of Kentmere 400 in half and it actually recorded images into the film. HC-110 dil F for 9 mins seems to be close enough to a 2 stop pull

There's also one for Kodak Gold Plus 100 which might be close enough to the Gold 100 of today but all the profiles are for ISO 100 film. I don't have any ISO 100 film that I'm willing to put through this thing. Maybe I could try pulling Kentmere 400 by 2 stops again, after I get everything fixed

A couple small problems: the foam light seals around the CRT have completely disintegrated. Shouldn't be a problem because it's not in the camera back which actually handles the film but I'd feel better with foam there. Also the only profile for non-extinct film in the software is for TMAX 100

It was just the power supply and I used some capacitors I pulled from scrap boards and the damn thing works now. Couldn't for the life of me get the windows software to work on XP so I pulled my powermac out and hooooooly crap

Almost all the caps leaked too. Fantastic

It's basically a printer but it prints images onto film. It's meant to make slides for slideshows but you can print pictures onto negative film instead which is what I want to use it for. Was hoping to run a roll of film through it tonight but that's not happening, evidently

I got a bottle of HC-110 a few days ago and a sous vide and finally got a chance to shoot some more Ektachrome. Tried HC-110 dilution A for 6:30 at 110F aaaaaaaaaaaaand most of the shots on the roll are underexposed. Oops

I stuck it on my full spectrum camera (Canon 50D). What if it was worse?

Not sure when that manga chapter came out, was fairly close to the beginning IIRC so 2004-2005?

I think this is wide open on the main lens (Super-Takumar 55mm f/1.8). It's hilarious how the addon lenses cause such a massive vignette especially since this is on an APS-C camera (Canon R50)

Ektachrome (some new, most 30 years old) and cross processed C-41 positives are fairly easy to print. I have some Kodachrome slides but I haven't tinkered enough to get decent prints from them. No idea how other slide films would print

I just stick a diffuser in front of the lens and don't bother changing the filtration between the pre-exposure and the actual exposure. Most of the time it doesn't shift the colors too badly but it can. At that point I just give up and try printing a different slide lmao