Maybe that reseller could just stock it? 😉

Those types of pliers also exist with adjustable force. Which might be better for your use case.

Luckily there's a better alternative. Hello @lectronz.com ! 👋

Whatever feels clear. I sometimes draw a box around them and a box around the components. Or a line in front connected to a line in front of the passives (in case of a single row)
Or just remove them and use an assembly drawing 😆

If you want this poster to remind you to slow down you can get it by following me and @cyborggarbage.bsky.social October 6 on the Goshwassociation 12 hour Livestream! Any new members or donations of any size will get you a cool slow sloth riso poster! Woohoo! 💾⚙️🦥

You'll be dancing in no time! (Unless you don't want to dance... 🧐)

Kudos to their support. Lego sent replacement parts, no questions asked!

(also make sure you get enough feeders since those would cost more than the machine possibly ;-) )

Hmm. You do need space around those machines for reels / air compressor / clean workspace b so that does make it tricky. But at that price point... Maybe ask around at the local Hackerspace If they've got some room?

Yes

Cut off a piece of solder wick. Don't use the whole roll.
Flux is your friend
Use the right type of lead free solder
Use the right solder tip for the task (and solder station with the best handle / power rating for the task)

So you can easily stuff a higher value in case the lines are too noisy to pass certification (think about series resistors in DDR or SPI lines which tend to be 22~33R) or for alternative stuffing options. Variant A connects pin to option 1, variant B to option 2.

Especially not if you use that time to launch a new PCB design 😆

I agree, not what you should do for all your devices. An upgrade of this board could include a configurable efuse as protection or selectable CC resistors to negotiate something other than the 5V 1.5A as it currently does.