31 Rue Cambon EdT, Still the best modern composition from Chanel Les Exclusifs (excluding those reissued vintages).

Vetiver and Lavender

Promesse de l'aube (MDCI)

Still my top 3 amongst MDCI, there's nothing original about this fragrance, but it feels perfectly appropriate in every way.

Its proper beauty reminds me of the male format New York Intense (Nicolai).

Apres l'ondee (Guerlain) is the one which guided my journey to perfumery, and I bought 2 bottles immediately after the initial smelling.

After hundreds or thousands of hours to re-experience, it is still the essence of nostalgic tenderness, of the poetic gentleness to repair a sad soul.

Aphorismes by Dominique Ropion

After days of testing the initial 3 samples (Rose, Garden, Incense), I feel solid about one thing: Frederic Malle is one of the BEST art directors alive to push DR to make chic perfumes.

ABDR is better than many Sephora's, but not as brilliant as his works for FM.

Insolence EDP (Guerlain)

Finally, after 4 years, I can wear it privately, one of "The Best Female Pop Songs" composed by Guerlain in 21 century. Maybe my mood changed.

And Luca Turin wrote a nice re-review titled "Guerlain Part 7" regarding the current version on Substack (App / Web).

It's very interesting to see some fragheads accuse Estee Lauder for "ruining" Frederic Malle because "he was forced to make some fragrances so awful that he decided to leave the brand".

Personally, I don't believe in such assumption. I need more solid resources to confirm.

First buy in 2025: Antaeus (Chanel)

To borrow the term from Estee Lauder, I would call Malle's Superstitious as "Lanvin Arpege Legacy".

My fav fragrances in 2024 (not launch date):
Cartier - Oud Collection
Cloon Keen - Lá Bealtaine
Guerlain - Habit Rouge Rouge Prive
Indemodables - Escale en Indonésie
Kenzo - Flower EDP
Lauder - Legacy Collection
Mugler - Angel EDP
Papillon - Epona
YSL - Jazz Prestige