LaurenCDeutsch
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LaurenCDeutsch
@laurencdeutsch.bsky.social
A book fanatic with an unhealthy amount of knowledge about Russian Lit, Jane Austen, and Lotrs. This is my platform to post daily about fashion history.
A more happening version of yesterday's #ootd is this 1866-8 Worth & Bobergh robe, a transformation that means this afternoon's bodice could be switched into a deep-cut, short-sleeved evening bodice. The bright green color was achieved through the new invention of aniline dyes.
November 25, 2025 at 7:35 AM
The 1st dress from Palais Galliera's Worth: Inventor of Haute Couture exhibit is from his beginnings when he partnered with Otto Gustav Bobergh in 1858 to create the brand Worth & Bobergh. This 1869 dress is an example of town and travel wear, which they produced as well as their
November 24, 2025 at 7:12 AM
As we say goodbye to Poiret, say hello to Friedrich Charles Worth! The next Parisian exhibit I visited this summer was Palais Galliera's Worth: Inventor of Haute Couture exhibit. It sadly ended in early September, but for those of you who couldn't make it, as with the Poiret
November 24, 2025 at 6:56 AM
Les Arts Decoratifs' Paul Poiret: A Feast of Fashion also had a surprising number of modern garments. To be honest, I didn't like them that much, and there were no labels that interpreted them in the context of Poiret. A missed opportunity, yet, in my OCD attempt to post every outfit in the
November 23, 2025 at 1:19 AM
Paul Poiret was so successful in part because he was a master at marketing. Part of his strategy was to hire artists to illustrate his designs. One such artist was George Lepape. He created one of the most iconic images of Poiret's house- this image of Denise Poiret in one of the
November 23, 2025 at 12:42 AM
For the past 2 months, I have posted every outfit of Les Arts Decoratifs' Paul Poiret: A Feast of Fashion exhibit...well, every outfit except the modern ones by other designers inspired by Poiret's work. Tomorrow I'll post a thread of all of those. In the meantime, enjoy this 1980 Chloe dress, named
November 21, 2025 at 6:02 AM
Here is the rest of the last case in Les Arts Decoratif's Paul Poiret: Feast of Fashion exhibit, which highlighted examples of his outerwear- a 1914 silk ottoman and embroidered cotton net coat, a 1928 satin evening cape, and a 1925 jersey and velvet coat, named Mistigri (French for
November 21, 2025 at 5:39 AM
#Ootd is this 1920 #PaulPoiret silk velvet evening coat. It was worn by Yvette Guilbert, a French singer and actress, at the L'Oasis, the outdoor theater and club that Poiret created the garden outside his fashion house. I was the venure of many of his famous parties.
November 20, 2025 at 4:11 AM
#Ootd is this 1926 Paul Poiret evening coat. It's made of ermine with some insets of faux black fur blended with gold lame, floral appliques using metallic thread, sequins, and metal beads. It is truly unique and a signifier of wealth. #Fashionhistory #paulpoiret
November 19, 2025 at 5:10 AM
Here is the rest of the second-to-last display in Les Arts Decoratifs' Paul Poiret: A Feast of Fashion. The two garments I didn't highlight were two 1922 dresses: the red and black one, named Saltimbanque, which refers to a street acrobat, and the black one, named Manege, which
November 19, 2025 at 5:03 AM
Today's #ootd is this 1925 Paul Poiret evening dress, a dress of red velvet and embroidered with jet and small cylinder beads. The sleeves are fantastic, with a yard of fabric attached to either side of a short sleeve, producing a loop that extends beyond the hem of the actual
November 18, 2025 at 12:28 AM
Today's #ootd is this 1926 Paul Poiret "Reine Reflets" (Queen of Reflections) evening gown. It is fully embroidered in black, brown, and silver sequins. It would have gleamed and sparkled in the candlelight, hence its name. Gorgeous! A picture that came with it shows how the
November 16, 2025 at 11:35 PM
#Ootd is this 1923 Paul Poiret dress, fils du ciel (son of heaven). It's made of velvet and embroidered with metallic thread, and has a folksy, Eastern European feel. Very elegant. #fashionhistory #paulpoiret
November 15, 2025 at 3:59 AM
The other designer highlighted in the section on Poiret's Legacy was Elsa Schiaparelli. She recognized Poiret's enormous influence on fashion history, referring to him as Leonardo Da Vinci. In this 1950-1 evening dress, she references his Oriental works with her use of boteh, paisley
November 14, 2025 at 5:45 AM
Also in the Poiret's Legacy section of Les Arts Decoratifs' exhibit, we have a 1960 Dior evening ensemble by Yves Saint Laurent. The name of the garment, Nuit d'Ispahan, or a Night in Isfahan, a city in Iran. Therefore, its inclusion in the exhibit refers to Poiret's Oriental references
November 13, 2025 at 1:53 AM
We're in the home stretch. The last two rooms of Les Arts Decoratifs' #PaulPoiret: A Feast of Fashion exhibit were entitled "Poiret's Legacy." One designer inspired by Poiret was none other than Christian Dior. In this 1948 evening coat, Minuit, Dior references Poiret's unstructured coats, which
November 12, 2025 at 5:32 AM
In this display case, Les Arts Decoratifs explores Paul Poiret's interests beyond fashion. Yesterday's #ootd was accompanied by another of Poiret's work jackets, this one from 1915-25, which he wore to present himself as an artist, both in fashion and painting. The next outfit is a 1925
November 11, 2025 at 7:17 AM
#Ootd is very unique, a 1920 jacket made by and for Paul Poiret! He had many examples of this "Norfolk" design with its buttoned-down front and belt at the waist. In fact, most of the pictures we have of him designing or painting are in a variation of this jacket, linking it with
November 10, 2025 at 6:27 AM
The rest of the display on Poiret's Atelier Martine includes a 1912 anemone (a flower) canvas, a 1912-3 three-leaf screen, two 1915-6 puppets, a 1912 bathing suit, and a 1919 rug by Dutch-French painter, Kees van Dongen.
November 9, 2025 at 7:18 AM
#Ootd isn't an outfit, but accessories Paul Poiret produced from designs by his Atelier Martine. All have bright, whimsical, floral patterns- a 1912 bamboo umbrella, a 1911 silk and wool cap, and a pair of 1924 "the Roses" shoes of embroidered velvet and silk chenille. #fashionhistory #paulpoiret
November 8, 2025 at 5:27 AM
Paul Poiret extended his brand beyond clothing, including perfume and interior design. This is common today, but he was one of the first to do so. His interior design house, Atelier Martine, was named after his daughter. He also created the Martine School of Decorative Arts, where 12-year-old girls
November 7, 2025 at 4:18 AM
The rest of the second display on Paul Poiret's family life has these four other objects: 1. A 1919 "Tout de suite" gown of velvet silk. 2. A 1914 wig worn by Poiret himself! 3. Another dress by Nicole Grout, Poiret's sister, this one from 1921. 4. A 1910 woodblock print
November 7, 2025 at 3:53 AM
Paul Poiret was not the only fashion designer in his family. His sister Nicole Groult also became a fashion designer in the 1900s to the 1930s. Like her brother, she also participated in abolishing the corset in her designs. Here we have a 1912 afternoon gown, produced at the
November 6, 2025 at 4:55 AM
#Ootd is this 1919 Paul Poiret velvet and satin dress with tulle embroidered with sequins. The low back ending with a bow and the switch from velvet to sequined thin straps are elegant and quite mesmerizing. Indeed, the back is more stunning than the front.
November 5, 2025 at 5:31 AM
I forgot to post the rest of the display that accompanied information on Paul Poiret's family. We have this 1922 ensemble for Poiret's son, Colin, a 1920 evening coat, named Ice-Cream soda, and a pair of shoes by Favereau, a shoemaker for Poiret. There was a 1910 tapestry by Raoul Dufy,
November 5, 2025 at 5:17 AM