Ben Anderson
benmanderson.bsky.social
Ben Anderson
@benmanderson.bsky.social
Cultural and Environmental Historian, Keele University UK
bbcR3/AHRCpress Newgenthinker 2018. www.keele.ac.uk/surf/ Co-Director. Outdoors leisure, Industrial heritage and decommissioning, Ultraviolet. Views my own.
It's a bit open to question as to whether Zangerl's ascent is more impressive than Honnold's. It is less spectacular, and less dangerous, but physically much harder; and route size makes a difference. Either way, women continue to show the way forward on the most famous cliff in the world.
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
There are two things to think about: equipment, and prior knowledge. The 'best' ascent relies on the least equipment and no prior knowledge - an onsight free-solo. A 'flash' means no practice, but with other prior knowledge - videos, advice. One fall means an onsight or flash attempt has failed.
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
2024 - Babsi Zangerl flashes Freerider, and is the first person to flash a big-wall route on El Cap.
I know some people will be confused about all these ascent 'styles' and terminology. Here's a decent summary, but I'll do one more post too: www.outdooractive.com/en/knowledge...
Climbing styles
In climbing, a basic distinction is made between aid climbing and free climbing. Free climbing can be ...
www.outdooractive.com
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
2017 - Alex Honnold free-solos Freerider - you've probably seen this! But note: Honnold knew this route well before he set off - it was a long way from a 'flash' ascent. hbr.org/2021/05/life...
Life’s Work: An Interview with Alex Honnold
Free soloing requires a tremendous amount of time thinking about risk.
hbr.org
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
2006-2013 - Many more free routes are established, but nothing really surpasses the above.
2014 - Pete Whittaker *sort of* flashes Freerider. This is complex - basically, there are two versions of the hardest pitch; Pete fell off one, but then flashed the other. For purists, this isn't quite there.
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
2005 - Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden make the second free ascent (and first male ascent) of the Nose. Steph Davis, having freed Freerider in a day in 2004, is the first woman to free Salathe wall. www.climbing.com/news/caldwel...
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
1998: More free routes are established by Thomas and Alex Huber: El Nino and Freerider - they establish many more over the next few years. Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden free Lurking Fear, also the first of many. Scott Burk spends 261 days almost freeing The Nose - but he top-ropes one pitch.
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
Then (and I still get goose bumps about this), in 1994 Lynn Hill freed The Nose a second time IN A SINGLE DAY. This is a feat that (I think), has only been repeated by one person - Tommy Caldwell, in 2005. Even just free ascents of the Nose are still very very rare. www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63...
Lynn Hill On The Nose
YouTube video by Lynn Hill
www.youtube.com
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
That (groundbreaking) ascent is really overshadowed by the two most impressive ascents in the history of rock climbing. First, in 1993 Lynn Hill freed El Cap's most famous route, The Nose, over 4 days. The hardest pitch alone was amongst the hardest ever climbed. www.tetongravity.com/story/Advent...
Achieving the Impossible: Lynn Hill’s Ascent of El Capitan’s Nose
www.tetongravity.com
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
First Free Ascent (FFA) - this is tricky. Ray Jardine and Bill Price freed the West Face in 1979, but didn't really fully tackle El Cap. Todd Skinner and Paul Piana freed Salathé Wall in 1988 - they took turns, but still the first FFA of a big wall on El Cap. However.. gripped.com/routes/histo...
History of Free Climbing The Nose 5.14 on El Capitan - Gripped Magazine
And 45 years of free climbs on the world's most famous big wall
gripped.com
November 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
Ah thanks!!!
November 13, 2024 at 2:39 PM
I suspect I'm too late! But if not do please add me!
November 13, 2024 at 2:37 PM
Ah, but yet they still rely on the labours of a vast hidden (migrant) workforce. I'll be gone from your feed once it can't support me anymore.
November 13, 2024 at 11:51 AM