Thanks!

Unfortunately (we've still got lots of retrofitting to do) the heating just gobbles up energy, so the more I can get to run in the 15p/kWh periods, the better.

Oh sorry I misread and thought you were talking about boosting on a schedule.

I haven’t got the app running yet, but when I set it up like that via SensoComfort, it didn’t recharge during the midday cheap period because the cylinder temp was still just high enough, and then it quickly ran out in the evening “off” period. I’m trying out reducing the hysteresis from 5k to 3k..

Where on the in-house display?

so what happens is you use hot water during off peak, run out at peak, and then it won’t reheat.

I thought the hot water time planner would do this - top up the cylinder during the planned times so it doesn’t need to at peak time. But instead it will only reheat if the hot water runs out during the scheduled time,

Was just writing about precisely this. www.businessgreen.com/blog-post/45...

My plan was to use inditherm under my floor, which was available in the right size for my joists, but supply seems to have dried up, and if I have to cut Steico flex to size, that’ll be about 100 cuts just for the living room… which is a bit daunting.

How do you do the cutting? I’ve been using the Bahco insulation hand saws and a tape measure, which work well for small amounts, but I’d really like a more efficient system with some kind of jig to do things faster and more accurately.

My plan was to get MVHR, but I’m out of time, money and headspace at the moment.

Excellent point. My plan is to cut out some of the plasterboard to get to the uninsulated section(s). I don’t think we have time atm, but mildew may well force our hand soon.

That might be the best justification for the amount of effort on such a small m2

Now it has 340mm of layers of hemp and woodfibre (because that’s what I had on hand of the right thicknesses and or widths), overlapping the bottom of the original wall by 140mm, and the wall overlapping the floor by 140mm

The attic floor had an ok fill of 200mm rock wool previously, but there was no thermal or air barrier between wall and floor, so cold air from the attic space could just run directly under the floor boards of the first floor.

It had some rock wool insulation before. The back wall there had two layers of 5-10mm rock wool. Seriously thin stuff! But I suppose that was felt to be a decent improvement on the previous standard of nothing.

It’s hard trying to #retrofit a coherent idea of a thermal envelope and airtightness layer into a building designed without those. Especially in the moment, where you’re stuffed into some cramped dark dusty space, trying to decide what to connect to where, and locking in those decisions.

Sealing up the escape at the end.

Do you remember where you got the materials and instructions? Do you need to get it perfectly smooth to be waterproof?