Trans men are men.
Trans women are women.
Non-binary people are real and valid.
I (Lapis) use she/they pronouns.
Trans men are men.
Trans women are women.
Non-binary people are real and valid.
I (Lapis) use she/they pronouns.
Almost all the parts are on the model, so next up will be painting the interior before adding the rest of the wheels and gluing the 3 parts of the turret together.
Almost all the parts are on the model, so next up will be painting the interior before adding the rest of the wheels and gluing the 3 parts of the turret together.
These boards were in the garage for 8 months, and mould had started growing on the plywood (see pic 2). I cleaned it with antibacterial spray (pic 3), so now PVA will seal it and prevent more growth.
These boards were in the garage for 8 months, and mould had started growing on the plywood (see pic 2). I cleaned it with antibacterial spray (pic 3), so now PVA will seal it and prevent more growth.
43063/062 and 50040 Leviathan, on the end boards only.
Annoyingly, control issues with 43063 meant I didn't get most of the work done to the layout that I wanted to do...
43063/062 and 50040 Leviathan, on the end boards only.
Annoyingly, control issues with 43063 meant I didn't get most of the work done to the layout that I wanted to do...
My favourite photo I took at the Statfold Barn Railway this weekend. It really shows off how poor quality coal the railway is having to use. It stank...
My favourite photo I took at the Statfold Barn Railway this weekend. It really shows off how poor quality coal the railway is having to use. It stank...
A simplex by DoubleM Models, to fit the TU-16A chassis, done in red like the current Corris Railway livery.
GVT Van 5 by Westcliff Works, done in GVT green, as per the Glyn Valley Tramway Trust's tool van. I don't yet have transfers though.
A simplex by DoubleM Models, to fit the TU-16A chassis, done in red like the current Corris Railway livery.
GVT Van 5 by Westcliff Works, done in GVT green, as per the Glyn Valley Tramway Trust's tool van. I don't yet have transfers though.
DoubleM Models:
Ruston with taller enclosed cab
Ruston with smaller open cab
Mini GVT tram
Simplex
Westcliff Works:
GVT Van 5, rebuilt RNAD van
Bachmann:
Ffestinoog Railway Van 8, passenger brake 3rd
Ffesty 119, Tin Car saloon 3rd with toilet
DoubleM Models:
Ruston with taller enclosed cab
Ruston with smaller open cab
Mini GVT tram
Simplex
Westcliff Works:
GVT Van 5, rebuilt RNAD van
Bachmann:
Ffestinoog Railway Van 8, passenger brake 3rd
Ffesty 119, Tin Car saloon 3rd with toilet
3 rounds of filling gaps (where the plasticard had gotten brittle and broken away) and sanding back, followed by 2 coats of black paint.
Next up, designing a new cab floor to replace the broken one.
3 rounds of filling gaps (where the plasticard had gotten brittle and broken away) and sanding back, followed by 2 coats of black paint.
Next up, designing a new cab floor to replace the broken one.
It has since been varnished, so next up will be creating a removable ballast load, and weathering it to match my 2 Peco P4 Starfish and 2 black Parkside 1/572 Grampus (the red one will stay pristine).
It has since been varnished, so next up will be creating a removable ballast load, and weathering it to match my 2 Peco P4 Starfish and 2 black Parkside 1/572 Grampus (the red one will stay pristine).
Quite a simple kit, as it was a starter set, but construction got delayed because I didn't have Humbrol 145 to paint half the camo scheme with.
Quite a simple kit, as it was a starter set, but construction got delayed because I didn't have Humbrol 145 to paint half the camo scheme with.
The Hymek was making a banging sound when running at Tolworth. Turns out it had split gears. So this was its test run after the temporary fix.
The Hymek was making a banging sound when running at Tolworth. Turns out it had split gears. So this was its test run after the temporary fix.
At the Tolworth 0 Gauge Group.
At the Tolworth 0 Gauge Group.
My 0 gauge Heljan Hymek made a banging noise at the Tolworth 0 Gauge Group on tuesday. Turns out it had 2 split gears!
So I glued them back together, bent the teeth a little to even them out, and now it seems ok.
Brass replacements will be bought after Ally Pally, to last longer
My 0 gauge Heljan Hymek made a banging noise at the Tolworth 0 Gauge Group on tuesday. Turns out it had 2 split gears!
So I glued them back together, bent the teeth a little to even them out, and now it seems ok.
Brass replacements will be bought after Ally Pally, to last longer
Originally it had a sponge inside that had perished, and a Dublo style coupling.
After cleaning the exterior, I cleaned the wheels, swapped the coupling for a tension lock (including crafting a platform from plasticard), and painted the area black.
Originally it had a sponge inside that had perished, and a Dublo style coupling.
After cleaning the exterior, I cleaned the wheels, swapped the coupling for a tension lock (including crafting a platform from plasticard), and painted the area black.
One more left to build, before I go buy a 5th and 6th (I need 6 in total for the Kuromorimine team).
One more left to build, before I go buy a 5th and 6th (I need 6 in total for the Kuromorimine team).
These are formed of 0.5mm brass rod, cut to size. The handles are also bent to shape, and fitted into holes I drilled into the doors.
These are formed of 0.5mm brass rod, cut to size. The handles are also bent to shape, and fitted into holes I drilled into the doors.
It has now gained all its remaining parts that I have (handrails at the corners, door hinges, door handles), and the chassis and body have now been painted.
This is now at the same stage as my O11 and O22 Siphon Gs, just needing transfers before varnish and weathering.
It has now gained all its remaining parts that I have (handrails at the corners, door hinges, door handles), and the chassis and body have now been painted.
This is now at the same stage as my O11 and O22 Siphon Gs, just needing transfers before varnish and weathering.
Is this normal for Hornby's 50015? And is it a simple fix, by rewiring the headcode box LEDs in parallel with the High Intensity Headlight?
Thanks for any advice.
Is this normal for Hornby's 50015? And is it a simple fix, by rewiring the headcode box LEDs in parallel with the High Intensity Headlight?
Thanks for any advice.
An enjoyable build, but painting the tyres on all 26 wheels (24 road wheels, 2 tensioners) was very time consuming.
Next up, a 3rd Panther.
An enjoyable build, but painting the tyres on all 26 wheels (24 road wheels, 2 tensioners) was very time consuming.
Next up, a 3rd Panther.
I was asked to repair this loco by the Twickenham and District Model Railway Club, before they sell it. And a friend has already called dibs...
Thanks to Hornby's customer care team for providing the parts to reattach the front bogie.
I was asked to repair this loco by the Twickenham and District Model Railway Club, before they sell it. And a friend has already called dibs...
Thanks to Hornby's customer care team for providing the parts to reattach the front bogie.
A 2nd Panzer V Panther ausf A, the 3rd of 20 for Kuromorimine's team.
The tank is about half complete at the moment, but it won't take that much to finish construction. And the paintjob is pretty simple too.
A 2nd Panzer V Panther ausf A, the 3rd of 20 for Kuromorimine's team.
The tank is about half complete at the moment, but it won't take that much to finish construction. And the paintjob is pretty simple too.
The brake rigging has also been constructed using 1.2mm and 0.5mm brass wire, and plasticard. It has since been painted.
The brake rigging has also been constructed using 1.2mm and 0.5mm brass wire, and plasticard. It has since been painted.
Gas tanks have now been added, using the supplied wooden dowel and plasticard strip. Annoyingly, the strip was only enough for 3 straps, so the 4th had to be made from a sheet of plasticard.
Brake rigging still needs to be added to finish the chassis area. A task for tomorrow?
Gas tanks have now been added, using the supplied wooden dowel and plasticard strip. Annoyingly, the strip was only enough for 3 straps, so the 4th had to be made from a sheet of plasticard.
Brake rigging still needs to be added to finish the chassis area. A task for tomorrow?
The roof had a strengthening beam added inside to prevent the body flexing inwards at the centre and causing the filler to crack. This was followed by a couple more rounds of filler and sanding back, to get the roof nice and smooth.
Gutters were then added on both sides.
The roof had a strengthening beam added inside to prevent the body flexing inwards at the centre and causing the filler to crack. This was followed by a couple more rounds of filler and sanding back, to get the roof nice and smooth.
Gutters were then added on both sides.
This loco had a loose wire, so I had to solder it to the copper on one of the carbon brushes. Otherwise, a regular clean and oil, and she's perfect (except a little noisy)
This loco had a loose wire, so I had to solder it to the copper on one of the carbon brushes. Otherwise, a regular clean and oil, and she's perfect (except a little noisy)