Shadowcat24
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24
@shadowcat24.bsky.social
140 followers 93 following 190 posts
I post my mini painting, WIPs, older projects, etc. US painter, mostly into DnD, RuneQuest, Pathfinder & other RPGs. Returning to painting after a hobby hibernation of ~25 years. I support full inclusion. He/him
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Apr 13
❤️ the way this ogre came out. I sketched & blended him: painted a zenithal highlight, applied the paint in a paint by numbers style, & then blended it all together. Highlighted it again w/white & then a diluted skin color for a bright look. Fear the ogre with no scars! 😂 My fave paint job so far.
A painted ogre miniature on a two inch base, holding a club with a buckler strapped on. Front view. A painted ogre miniature on a two inch base, holding a club with a buckler strapped on. Left view. A painted ogre miniature on a two inch base, holding a club with a buckler strapped on. Rear view. A painted ogre miniature on a two inch base, holding a club with a buckler strapped on. Right view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 3d
This cover to Moon Knight was so radical when it came out. Everyone at the comic book store thought it was the coolest! Good to see it again….
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 6d
Fifth and final session painting Daern’s Instant Fortress (DnD 5e, DMG p. 160) for one of our campaigns (Vecna Is Going Down!). Details on process and paints in the alt text of the photos. #dnd #instantfortress #daernsinstantfortress #terrain #art #dungeonsanddragons
An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Four photos pictured here of the tower exterior. Fifth and final session: painted door pulls, shackles, and chains, with Golden SoFlat black and then highlighted with Vallejo Game Color Gunmetal mixed with some Daler Rowney black ink. Fourth session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Four photos, one of each floor’s interior. Current session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. View of the tower exterior from its left, where there are three wizards in the roof fighting off the following monsters: an ogre, 2 troglodytes, a zombie, a mummy, an illithid (mind flayer), an orc, and a goblin. Current session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. Each level of the tower’s interior pictured here. The top level shows a Fire Wizard and Water Wizard fighting off an orcs, a mummy, and a zombie. The third level shows a wizard fighting off a troglodyte. The second level shows a nobleman confronting an illithid (mind flayer). The first level shows two goblins and an orc.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 7d
Fourth session painting Daern’s Instant Fortress (DnD 5e, DMG p. 160) for one of our campaigns (Vecna Is Going Down!). Almost done, only details remain. Details on process and paints in the alt text of the photos. #dnd #instantfortress#daernsinstantfortress #terrain #WIP #art
An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Front view of tower exterior pictured here from a low angle. Current session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Four photos pictured here with a view of the front, rear, left and right of the tower. Current session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Top view of one level of thr tower interior pictured here. Current session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Top view of each level of the tower interior pictured here, including the roof. Current session: dry brushed a light tan then a white. Then applied a black wash where there should be shadows and a sepia wash everywhere else. Only details such a shackles, chains, and other minor details as remain. Third session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 8d
Third session painting Daern’s Instant Fortress (DnD 5e, DMG p. 160) for one of our campaigns (Vecna Is Going Down!). WIP. Mostly painted secondary colors on some stones, wash next! Details on process & paints in the photos’ alt text. #dnd #instantfortress #daernsinstantfortress #terrain #WIP #art
An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Front view of tower exterior pictured here. Current session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Four photos in one, a view of all four sides of tower exterior. Current session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Pictured here is the third level of the tower interior. Current session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Four photos in one, pictured here is a view of the interior of all four levels of the tower. Current session: applied Liquitex Basics Acrylics neutral gray 5 to foundational, support, and random stones. Painted random stones different colors: Liquitex Basics Acrylics Payne’s gray, burnt umber, raw umber; Liquitex Basics Acrylic Fluid unbleached titanium; and DecoArt Americana cinnamon stick, fawn, and spiced pumpkin. (Can’t use the good stuff for terrain!) Second session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. First session: it was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 9d
Another session painting Daern’s Instant Fortress (DnD 5e, DMG p. 160) for one of our campaigns (Vecna Is Going Down!). WIP. Mostly painted the stone with a thinned tan. Details on process and paints in the alt text of the photos. #dnd #instanttower #daernsinstanttower #terrain #WIP #art
An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Front view of tower exterior pictured here. Current session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. From first session: It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Front, left, right, and rear views of tower exterior pictured here. Current session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. From first session: It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Top view of one level of tower interior pictured here. Current session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. From first session: It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. Top view of all four levels of tower interiors pictured here. Current session: mixed some paints to make a tan, which was thinned with water to be semi-transparent (mixed Liquitex Basics Acrylics: titanium white, Payne’s gray, burnt sienna, and raw sienna). Painted the exterior wood rafters and the top of the entrance to the tower. From first session: It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 10d
Wow, the mix of skin and psychedelia hit me more powerfully than the psychedelia alone! That’s a surprise! Awesome as usual!
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 15d
Correction to the recipe for the wash: it was about four parts Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber and one part Mars Black from the same line. I then watered it down to a wash consistency using water, no mediums needed.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 15d
Painting Daern’s Instant Fortress (DnD 5e, DMG p. 160) for one of our campaigns (Vecna Is Going Down!). WIP. Primed and zenithaled it, then played with browns to do the wood. Details on process and paints in the alt text of the photos. #dnd #instanttower #daernsinstanttower #terrain #WIP #art
An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. Four pictures combined into one, each showing a different exterior side of the tower. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. Four pictures combined into one, each showing a different interior floor of the tower. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. Front exterior view. An FDM printed four story classic castle tower. It was rattle can primed black and pictured here is a zenithal highlight of airbrushed Daler Rowney FW Ink white. The wood was airbrushed Createx Transparent Dark Brown. It was then airbrushed lightly with the white ink and then airbrushed Createx Light Brown. Finally a wash of Liquitex Basics Acrylic Burnt Umber was applied. In hindsight, I could have simply applied the light brown on top of the zenithal and then applied the wash. Who knows, there’s a depth of color there now that may not be there if I’d done it that way. Four pictures combined into one, one showing the front exterior, another the rear exterior view, and the others are the interior of two floors that have wood. Some bits are grey amongst the wood on the interior and exterior…those are intended to be stone pillars and will be painted that way when I get to the stone stuff.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 18d
“Look in my eyes, I want to watch the light go out,” said the Infernal Demon Lord from Den of Imagination. WIP. In this short session, I refined the claws, the dwarf hands, the dwarf shoulder, and horns.
#dnd #minipainting #rpgs #infernaldemonlord #art #demon #devil #wings #WIP #mini #miniature
A red demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted red. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak and hands. Designed by Den of Imagination. Front view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 20d
WIP Infernal Demon Lord by Den of Imagination. Airbrushed alternating layers of white ink and different transparent reds. This session, I refined the skulls, claws, toes, and wing claws.
#dnd #minipainting #rpgs #infernaldemonlord #art #miniature #demon #devil #wings #WIP #denofimagination
A red demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. Designed by Den of Imagination. Left/head on view. A red demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. Designed by Den of Imagination. Front view. A red demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. Designed by Den of Imagination. Right side view. A red demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. Designed by Den of Imagination. Rear view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 22d
WIP Infernal Demon Lord. Airbrushed alternating layers of white ink and different transparent reds. This session, I based the skulls, painted and blended the cloak, attached the head, and gap filled the arm.
#dnd #minipainting #rpgs #infernaldemonlord #art #miniature #demon #devil #wings #WIP
A red demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. Designed by Den of Imagination. Front view. A red winged demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. He is holding a large sword in his other hand and he has a large spiked segmented tail. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. The wings, sword, and tail are temporarily attached. Designed by Den of Imagination. Front view. A red winged demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. He is holding a large sword in his other hand and he has a large spiked segmented tail. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. The wings, sword, and tail are temporarily attached. Designed by Den of Imagination. Right side view. Four pictures depicting various angles of a red winged demonic humanoid is holding the upper half of a dwarf’s body and staring into his eyes. Its body is partially painted and is red. He is holding a large sword in his other hand and he has a large spiked segmented tail. The dwarf is largely unpainted except for its green cloak. The wings, sword, and tail are temporarily attached. Designed by Den of Imagination. Multiple views.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 23d
Do you nerd out over this stuff too? My post was too long, so i typed it up and took a photo of it. #verkosvault #miniaturemuseum #minis #minipainting #verkos #vault #nerdling #nerdlings
A photo of text that says, “I was at Verko’s Vault a few weeks back. Of course, I oogled at all the minis. I found it fascinating that the thing they almost all had in common were how desaturated the shadows were and how saturated the highlights were. I love vibrant minis, and yet seeing how beautiful they all looked with that contrast in saturation was kind of amazing. I think I’m still an intermediate painter, so overthinking all the techniques and styles is fun while I discover just what I’m into to. I know what I like now and yet like many of us, I’m looking to experiment and grow with every piece. The evolution is totally satisfying and learning new stuff equally so.”
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 24d
A work in progress, 3rd session, my first 40k mini, 28 mm scale. No airbrush, practicing my blending. Paint info in alt text of photos. #40k #warhammer #ultramarine #nerdlings #minipainting #miniature #minis #miniatures #art #WIP #ultramarines
A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Skulls were based in ground brown, then bone khaki, then cloudy sky. The ribbons/oath seals were based in oxide brown dark, then red oxide, then the red, and then highlights of orange. Didn’t mess with the pouches and other details this session. Front view. A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Skulls were based in ground brown, then bone khaki, then cloudy sky. The ribbons/oath seals were based in oxide brown dark, then red oxide, then the red, and then highlights of orange. Didn’t mess with the pouches and other details this session. Left side view. A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Skulls were based in ground brown, then bone khaki, then cloudy sky. The ribbons/oath seals were based in oxide brown dark, then red oxide, then the red, and then highlights of orange. Didn’t mess with the pouches and other details this session. Rear view. A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Skulls were based in ground brown, then bone khaki, then cloudy sky. The ribbons/oath seals were based in oxide brown dark, then red oxide, then the red, and then highlights of orange. Didn’t mess with the pouches and other details this session. Right side view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 25d
Second WIP session. I’m feeling like the highlighting is completely off on the right shoulder with the raised arm. Anyone got any suggestions? Maybe it needs a line of shadows like a cylinder instead of a sphere? 28 mm scale, colors in alt text.
#WIP #minipainting #40k #warhammer #ultramarine
A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Didn’t mess with the skulls, pouches and other details this session, this session was all about smoothing the blends and getting the highlights correct on the armor. Front view. A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Didn’t mess with the skulls, pouches and other details this session, this session was all about smoothing the blends and getting the highlights correct on the armor. Left side view. A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Didn’t mess with the skulls, pouches and other details this session, this session was all about smoothing the blends and getting the highlights correct on the armor. Rear view. A 28 mm scale ultramarine painted with Kimera Kolors. Base coat was violet, midtones were samurai green (sort of a permanent green) mixed with violet, then highlights of that mix with sun ray (a pale yellow), and the highest highlights were that mix with sun ray and the white. Glazes of ultramarine blue were also used to smooth the colors. Didn’t mess with the skulls, pouches and other details this session, this session was all about smoothing the blends and getting the highlights correct on the armor. Right side view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 26d
I love that it looks like there’s only so much blending going on and we can see the brushstrokes. Gives it a super painterly look and at the same time it’s layered so that it has a comprehensive semi-blended look. Super cool!
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 26d
Love the WIP pictures! Also love how it seems pretty clear you used underpainting in one color, built the contrast, and then glazed colors on some of the highlights for serious visual interest. Looks totally natural and yet when you dissect it, it looks funky. Totally cool!
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 29d
And yes, definitely please show in-process pics! They’re too cool…especially in your high contrast style!
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · 29d
That underpainting, and how it shows through, looks absolutely brilliant! And you may not believe me, but that Morbius spread inspired me to learn how to tile photos into one. 🫣🙈 (For an iPhone, I need to use the Shortcuts app.) I’ll definitely be posting my progress using that in the future!
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 21
I find it endlessly fascinating how we all can gravitate to different steps! Seeing that other perspective alters my own….
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 21
Also, blending in this way is not my natural style. I generally prefer to underpaint (grisaille) and then lay transparent color over it. It’s easier for me to parse out contrasts in the biggies: value, complementary colors, temperature, and saturation. But that’s part of the fun, still learning!
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 21
So funny, I love laying down that first layer. It’s like shaking and putting paint on my palette at the start of a session. My brain fills with possibilities and dreams of what the session and result will be…like a kid eagerly waiting for Christmas. 😁
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 21
A work in progress, my first 40k mini, a 28 mm scale one. Didn’t use an airbrush to practice my blending…you can see I need more practice. 😁 Paint info in alt text of photos. #40k #warhammer #ultramarine #nerdlings #minipainting #miniature #minis #minipainting #miniatures #art #WIP
A 40k blue armored figure holding a handgun, adorned with skulls on his knees, left shoulder, and belt. Still a work in progress. All paints are Kimera Kolors: Violet for all over, Samurai Green to establish highlights, then mixed the violet and samurai green for a blue. Blended in the blue for mid tones, then mixed some Sun Ray into the mixed blue to get the highest highlights. The mini looked too green at that point and so I glazed it with Ultramarine Blue, ensuring it read as blue. Loincloth was base painted with Oxide Brown Dark, then layered with Red Oxide, The Red, and then Orange. Skulls and leather were base painted with oxide brown and then highlighted with Dark Ochre. The leather belt was based and highlighted with the same. Gun remains in its based violet, and the insignia on his chest remains based in Oxide Brown Dark for now. Front view. A 40k blue armored figure holding a handgun, adorned with skulls on his knees, left shoulder, and belt. Still a work in progress. All paints are Kimera Kolors: Violet for all over, Samurai Green to establish highlights, then mixed the violet and samurai green for a blue. Blended in the blue for mid tones, then mixed some Sun Ray into the mixed blue to get the highest highlights. The mini looked too green at that point and so I glazed it with Ultramarine Blue, ensuring it read as blue. Loincloth was base painted with Oxide Brown Dark, then layered with Red Oxide, The Red, and then Orange. Skulls and leather were base painted with oxide brown and then highlighted with Dark Ochre. The leather belt was based and highlighted with the same. Gun remains in its based violet, and the insignia on his chest remains based in Oxide Brown Dark for now. Left side view. A 40k blue armored figure holding a handgun, adorned with skulls on his knees, left shoulder, and belt. Still a work in progress. All paints are Kimera Kolors: Violet for all over, Samurai Green to establish highlights, then mixed the violet and samurai green for a blue. Blended in the blue for mid tones, then mixed some Sun Ray into the mixed blue to get the highest highlights. The mini looked too green at that point and so I glazed it with Ultramarine Blue, ensuring it read as blue. Loincloth was base painted with Oxide Brown Dark, then layered with Red Oxide, The Red, and then Orange. Skulls and leather were base painted with oxide brown and then highlighted with Dark Ochre. The leather belt was based and highlighted with the same. Gun remains in its based violet, and the insignia on his chest remains based in Oxide Brown Dark for now. Rear view. A 40k blue armored figure holding a handgun, adorned with skulls on his knees, left shoulder, and belt. Still a work in progress. All paints are Kimera Kolors: Violet for all over, Samurai Green to establish highlights, then mixed the violet and samurai green for a blue. Blended in the blue for mid tones, then mixed some Sun Ray into the mixed blue to get the highest highlights. The mini looked too green at that point and so I glazed it with Ultramarine Blue, ensuring it read as blue. Loincloth was base painted with Oxide Brown Dark, then layered with Red Oxide, The Red, and then Orange. Skulls and leather were base painted with oxide brown and then highlighted with Dark Ochre. The leather belt was based and highlighted with the same. Gun remains in its based violet, and the insignia on his chest remains based in Oxide Brown Dark for now. Right side view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 18
Finished Dread Warrior 3 of 4 for HeroQuest board game. The alt text for the photos have information about the paints used.

#heroquest #dreadwarrior #nerdlings #miniature #minis #rpg #paintedmini #minipainting
#dnd #dungeonsanddragons #miniatures #art #hero #quest
#tmm #truemetallicmetal
Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, green metallic trim, and bright red eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Green cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and phthalo green (blue shade), base color permanent green, and highlights yellow green. Green metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Golden SoFlat phthalo green (blue shade), washed with Vallejo black green ink and sepia shade. Eyes are Golden SoFlat fluorescent red glazed with SoFlat naphthol light red on top. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Front view. Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, green metallic trim, and bright red eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Green cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and phthalo green (blue shade), base color permanent green, and highlights yellow green. Green metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Golden SoFlat phthalo green (blue shade), washed with Vallejo black green ink and sepia shade. Eyes are Golden SoFlat fluorescent red glazed with SoFlat naphthol light red on top. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Left side view. Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, green metallic trim, and bright red eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Green cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and phthalo green (blue shade), base color permanent green, and highlights yellow green. Green metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Golden SoFlat phthalo green (blue shade), washed with Vallejo black green ink and sepia shade. Eyes are Golden SoFlat fluorescent red glazed with SoFlat naphthol light red on top. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Rear view. Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, green metallic trim, and bright red eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Green cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and phthalo green (blue shade), base color permanent green, and highlights yellow green. Green metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Golden SoFlat phthalo green (blue shade), washed with Vallejo black green ink and sepia shade. Eyes are Golden SoFlat fluorescent red glazed with SoFlat naphthol light red on top. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Right side view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 16
Finished Dread Warrior 2 of 4 for HeroQuest board game. Halloween theme for the heck of it. See photo alt text for paint information.

#heroquest #dreadwarrior #nerdlings #miniature #minis #rpg #paintedmini #minipainting
#dnd #dungeonsanddragons #miniatures #art #hero #quest
#tmm #truemetallicmetal
Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, orange metallic trim, and fluorescent blue eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Orange cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and cadmium orange, base color cadmium orange, and highlights medium orange. Orange metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx Transparent Sunset Red, washed with Vallejo sepia shade. Eyes are Golden High Flow Acrylics fluorescent blue. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Front view. Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, orange metallic trim, and fluorescent blue eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Orange cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and cadmium orange, base color cadmium orange, and highlights medium orange. Orange metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx Transparent Sunset Red, washed with Vallejo sepia shade. Eyes are Golden High Flow Acrylics fluorescent blue. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Left side view. Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, orange metallic trim, and fluorescent blue eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Orange cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and cadmium orange, base color cadmium orange, and highlights medium orange. Orange metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx Transparent Sunset Red, washed with Vallejo sepia shade. Eyes are Golden High Flow Acrylics fluorescent blue. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Rear view. Fully painted Dread Warrior from the HeroQuest board game, black armor, orange metallic trim, and fluorescent blue eyes. Black armor is Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide, highlights are iridescent stainless steel, same line. Orange cloth is Golden SoFlats, shadows a mix of Payne’s grey and cadmium orange, base color cadmium orange, and highlights medium orange. Orange metallics are Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx Transparent Sunset Red, washed with Vallejo sepia shade. Eyes are Golden High Flow Acrylics fluorescent blue. Horns and teeth are underpainted white and then layered with SoFlat burnt umber. Right side view.
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shadowcat24.bsky.social
Shadowcat24 @shadowcat24.bsky.social · Sep 15
Nearly finished with this WIP. It’s #3 of 4 of the Dread Warriors from the board game Hero Quest. Highlights are with Golden Fluid Acrylic Iridescent Stainless Steel.
#heroquest #dreadwarrior #nerdlings #miniature #minis #rpg #paintedmini #minipainting
#dnd #dungeonsanddragons #miniatures #art #WIP
Dread Warrior painted with black armor and green trim. Still need to paint the horns, teeth, and all eyes. Black armor was painted with Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide. Green trim was painted with Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx brite green transparent paint. Front view. Dread Warrior painted with black armor and green trim. Still need to paint the horns, teeth, and all eyes. Shield trim and black armor was painted with Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide. Green part of the shield was painted with Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx brite green transparent paint. Left side view. Dread Warrior painted with black armor and green trim. Still need to paint the horns, teeth, and all eyes. Black armor was painted with Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide. Green cloak visible. Rear view. Dread Warrior painted with black armor and green trim. Still need to paint the horns, teeth, and all eyes. Black armor was painted with Golden Fluid Acrylic micaceous iron oxide. Green trim was paint with Liquitex Silver Metallic Medium mixed with Createx brote green transparent paint. Right side view.
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